Tracy is tall and skinny. Oh well, we can't all be perfect. She also has a sweet tooth and an appreciation of jelly beans so she was delighted to find that the nut man in Maadi carried jelly beans as well and she buys them by the kilo bag and then puts them in a bowl on my desk so that we all can enjoy them...like I need to be enjoying jelly beans! The red ones are the first to go since both Tracy and I like them best, then the yellow ones, the green ones and the orange ones. The black ones all get eaten by Morad because neither of us like licorice much. We haven't figured out what flavour the green ones are yet...some kind of flowery flavour that isn't lime. The biggest problem with the jelly beans, other than the inherent damage to my diet, is that you have to dust your jelly beans in Egypt if you leave them in an open bowl. So every now and then I find Tracy sitting with a Kleenex dusting her jelly beans. Of course. It makes all the sense in the world.
Egypt isn't what it appears to be in the media...but that's no real surprise, since not much is. I moved here in the late 80's from Toronto, Canada, with my Canadian/Egyptian husband, my son and my daughter. The children adapted quickly and we decided that this country was a good place to live. Now I wouldn't change my home for anything.
Friday, September 02, 2005
Dusting the Jelly Beans
Tracy is tall and skinny. Oh well, we can't all be perfect. She also has a sweet tooth and an appreciation of jelly beans so she was delighted to find that the nut man in Maadi carried jelly beans as well and she buys them by the kilo bag and then puts them in a bowl on my desk so that we all can enjoy them...like I need to be enjoying jelly beans! The red ones are the first to go since both Tracy and I like them best, then the yellow ones, the green ones and the orange ones. The black ones all get eaten by Morad because neither of us like licorice much. We haven't figured out what flavour the green ones are yet...some kind of flowery flavour that isn't lime. The biggest problem with the jelly beans, other than the inherent damage to my diet, is that you have to dust your jelly beans in Egypt if you leave them in an open bowl. So every now and then I find Tracy sitting with a Kleenex dusting her jelly beans. Of course. It makes all the sense in the world.
Monday, August 29, 2005
The Importance Of Being
The new land is moving along these days. Workers spent the last five days putting in pipe to hold the wire mesh fencing around the land and between Tracy's garden and mine. We have roughly 2.5 metre fence set in concrete, not for our security but for our neighbours. Most of the families here raise free-range chickens, geese and ducks, and I can't see myself being able to gently explain to about 15 Rat Terriers that these enticing moving targets are really not to be enjoyed. As well, I like to know that if horses manage to open their paddocks, they aren't going very far. The main road isn't that far away and if one gets out during the night, I'd rather not find that it met a dump truck or something. I've been out walking the land a few times a day to see what all is happening there. The well diggers have the equipment there and started the process of digging our well in the corner near the storage room that is already on site. It will take a couple of days to dig the well since the work is all done by hand and gravity. They set up a tripod over the spot for the well and hoist and then drop a heavy iron pipe in the place. This gradually eats away the soil underneath and excavates a hole that eventually will be about 22 metres deep. The initial few metres are soil, then there is a gravel layer and a rock layer. It's hard work and the men who do it are tough and wiry.




Saturday, August 27, 2005
Other Egyptian Bloggers
I ran across Baheyya's blog while looking up something on the net. That's one of the things that I love about the internet, the serendipitous encounters of ideas and thoughts that are so easy. I get Slate and there was a reference to a blog written by an American in Iraq who is following US forces and writing war stories. Apparently, and not too surprisingly, he is the darling of the right neo-cons....equally unsurprisingly, I wasn't so thrilled with his blog. In the process of checking out Michael Yon's work, I found Baheyya. She's much more political than I am, which is appropriate because she is Egyptian and has much more pertinent comments on the political scene than I do. I highly recommend her. Go check her out.
Thursday, August 25, 2005
Starting The New Place

Yes, I'm definitely excited and I walk over to the land every day to see the progress on the building of the chain link fence that will give my beleaguered neighbours peace of mind and safety from the depredations of the rat pack. If you look very, very, very closely between the grape leaves, you can just barely make out the back of my present house showing through. The horses will be within sight of my rented house by next month. Right now there isn't anything other than my lungs and the threat of becoming cat food to keep the dogs away from my neighbours' poultry, so I will be immensely happy when we finish the fence. I was also happy to learn that ducks are smart enough to play dead when a rat terrier jumps on them. Dead ducks are SO much less exciting.


The other end of the land has my duck-owning neighbours. They are a tiny bit less elegant in their living quarters, but they are very nice about the predatory hounds. Morgana the Dane and Terra, my oldest terrier, are exploring the open spaces at that end of the land. There should be horse paddocks in that spot in a month or so. I'm lucky to have a neighbour with a nursery so I can get pretty good size trees for the land at a reasonable price. This whole experience will be an exercise in frugality and I'm exploring local types of architecture and construction. I'm planning a one bedroom house with an office. Most of the space is for the menagerie, with the horses getting the lion's share to mix a zoological metaphor.

Meanwhile, the dogs are having an absolute ball in the irrigation ditches when we visit the land. This ditch runs right behind my rented house. The path that Koheila the Dalmation is looking down passes next to the fence of my current house, the fence covered in morning glory to the left of the path. The main problem with their aquatic play time is that I have to lock them out of the house while they dry off and clean themselves up. If they get into some really disgusting mud, then it is bath time which, for reasons that escape me but probably make perfect sense to a dog, is cruel and unusual punishment. I don't get it. A muddy, smelly canal is a dog's playground, but a bath kills? I think that they might be related to children.
Blogging is Getting Noticed Here?
I don't quite know how to react to this story. On one hand, I think that the flow of information is always a good thing. On the other, given the projections in the article that the government here might become unfriendly to bloggers, I can only hope that the soothsayers are wrong. In the meantime, I don't blog in Arabic and most of what I write can hardly be called political. Lets all hope for the best.
Saturday, August 20, 2005
Political Thoughts on a Saturday
Edward Jay Epstein's Web Log
Found this site through an article on Slate. The writer looks at "data mining", basically ways of analysing data in the systems of various government bodies to come up with people who fit certain criteria. He suggests that researchers apparently did come up with names of people identified as being involved in the World Trade Center disaster more than a year before it happened. Unfortunately, for whatever reasons, not only did no one pay any attention, but later people testified in the 9/11 hearings that the information wasn't there.
The amount of information that can be mined on people who travel these days is, in itself, rather spooky but not altogether a bad thing, I suppose. The fact that no one spoke about it and that the information was a) ignored and b) later denied is even more spooky.
The weather is cooler and clearer today with a wonderful breeze. A two hour ride in the countryside with a good friend and her horse was an absolute blessing. We found ourselves laughing out loud for no other reasons than the wind felt good, the clouds were fluffy and white, and the horses were happy to be moving. Children and farmers who have been wearily dragging themselves through the heat were walking briskly and scampering down the paths and roadways today. I know that there will be more heat before the autumn (such as it is here) hits, but I thank whatever powers may be for such a blessing as this morning. Horses, companionship, and beauty...what more can one want?
Found this site through an article on Slate. The writer looks at "data mining", basically ways of analysing data in the systems of various government bodies to come up with people who fit certain criteria. He suggests that researchers apparently did come up with names of people identified as being involved in the World Trade Center disaster more than a year before it happened. Unfortunately, for whatever reasons, not only did no one pay any attention, but later people testified in the 9/11 hearings that the information wasn't there.
The amount of information that can be mined on people who travel these days is, in itself, rather spooky but not altogether a bad thing, I suppose. The fact that no one spoke about it and that the information was a) ignored and b) later denied is even more spooky.
The weather is cooler and clearer today with a wonderful breeze. A two hour ride in the countryside with a good friend and her horse was an absolute blessing. We found ourselves laughing out loud for no other reasons than the wind felt good, the clouds were fluffy and white, and the horses were happy to be moving. Children and farmers who have been wearily dragging themselves through the heat were walking briskly and scampering down the paths and roadways today. I know that there will be more heat before the autumn (such as it is here) hits, but I thank whatever powers may be for such a blessing as this morning. Horses, companionship, and beauty...what more can one want?
Thursday, August 18, 2005
Bureaucracy on a Summer Day

Life demanded a visit to the Maadi Motor Vehicles department today. I didn't actually have to do anything there other than be present with my passport. Other people stood in lines and negotiated with the poor parboiled government employees cooking away in the tin-roofed bungalow fitted with windows for the passing of documents and cash. I fed the avians and drove into "civilisation" to meet the proper people at the gate of the Morour as it's known in Arabic. The Morour is an open courtyard with parking space for cars that must be inspected and some hard chairs in the shade along a wall for people like myself who are waiting for papers to be processed.
Naturally, the papers that I had to sign were in the hands of a young man who was making his way from Heliopolis on the other side of downtown Cairo (where you would see this lovely old building if you were on the overpass to the area near Al Azhar), so having rushed to get to Maadi on time, I had to wait. Normal. He finally showed up, I signed papers and sat down with a copy of William Dalrymple's book City of Djinns about his year in Delhi, India. I'd almost finished the book on the plane home so I figured that this would be a good chance to get to the end of it. I was right. For almost three hours I sat on my chair watching the windows of the offices, reading my book, and being entertained by the activity around me. Thursday is a short day at government offices so the rush was in the morning and gradually activity tapered off as the clocks struck noon and windows began closing.
One of the first people I encountered was a polite young man in a tie and shoes that looked as though they were being held together by black polish. He introduced himself and offered me a pen, which I took rather thoughtfully, not having any need for one at this time. When it became apparent that he was, in fact, selling pens I handed it back explaining that I wasn't in the market for ballpoints at this time. I thought at first that he was one of the ubiquitous "fixers", people who hang around government offices offering to help bewildered folk (especially foreign looking ones) with the bizarre necessities of paperwork in Egypt. I've used their services before and sometimes they are helpful...but then sometimes they are not. Not having any need of an impromptu "fixer" since I had mine in tow, I wasn't too welcoming. When my own gentleman showed up, he knew this young man who had obviously seen Mahmoud on a previous visit to the Morour. As a matter of fact, Mahmoud informed him that his pens were terrible and that he'd never buy one from him again. Oh well.
Once I was installed in a chair between an old man whose son was running back and forth to windows and another older woman who had what seemed to be an employee of some sort helping her with the bureaucracy, I could relax and enjoy the show... and it was a show. Another man in a white shirt, tie, and shoes in rather better repair stopped in front of us with some plastic bags and a brief case. Placing these objects on the table in front of us, he started in on his spiel. First he had a pair of small plastic boxes that could be affixed to a door or window so that when the door or window opened and the boxes were separated, an absolutely ear-splitting racket would emanate from the larger box. He informed us that these high tech security devices sold for at least 5 LE in the stores but that he was selling them for only 3.5 LE (roughly 50 cents US). Wonderful. I was ready to pay him 5 LE to shut the shrieking off. I can't imagine the chaos that would ensue in my house if such a device were to be put on the garden gate for example. Granted, yes I would definitely know if someone opened the gate, but with over a dozen dogs, I usually know anyway. Still, he did manage to sell a couple of them to people next to me.
Then he moved on to his other wonderful products. One of these was a pack of 5 highlighting pens in various colours "perfect for your children in school" and another was a pack of screwdriver tips that could be attached to a handle for any type of screw in the world. The pens were going for 1.5 LE and the screwdriver set for 3.5 LE. Happily for him, he sold a few of them as well. I watched this man work the crowd for the next couple of hours. He'd move from spot to spot as the people on the chairs changed, but his patter never really varied. At one point, the pen man showed up with his defective pens and a more expensive screwdriver set, which apparently Mahmoud had also bought the week before. I think that changing or renewing car licenses can involve expenses that no one really expects with these sidewalk salesmen meandering through the crowds.

Two plus hours is a long time on a summer day. At one point a circulating entrepreneur showed up with a cold Coke which was much appreciated when I'd turned my attention to Dalrymple's Indian narrative. Many of the scenes he described sounded remarkably similar to the things I see, although India appears to be much more crowded, hot and dusty than Egypt in the summer. Sitting under a jacaranda now sporting its twisted green seed pods in place of lavender blooms and commiserating with the motor vehicle employees who I'm sure were quite miserable under their tin roof, Delhi in the summer was a vivid picture. I have some very good friends from Cairo who are in India these days but in the hill country in Musoorie and Ameeta is always after me to visit. I would truly love to but somehow I don't see it in the budget. Another item to add to the "When I win the lottery..." list. I'm sure that the villages in India have these donkey drawn merry go rounds and swings like the ones that we see in the poorer sections of Cairo and in the villages on feast days. I've been assured that there are so many things that are similar between the Egyptian countryside and India from birds to cow manure patties for fuel. These are dried on the roofs here where they provide insulation while on top and can be used for fires when dry.
I was sorry to finish my book but the end of the book came just as the end of the paperwork did and I wasn't at all sorry to see the end of the Motor Vehicle Department. So it was back to Abu Sir where I discovered that we'd only had about four power cuts this morning, rather than day before yesterday's every-five-minute power cuts for most of the day. See? Some things improve over time.
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